El Fuerte–Zorro and other misperceptions

  “My brother has a hotel in El Fuerte. It’s clean and secure. You should stay there,” I had, once again, fallen into a rabbit hole and was waiting for the train in Bahuichivo to complete the last leg of my trip through the Copper Canyon (Barranca del Cobre). I’d been speaking with Miguel, who [...]

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Merry Drunken Christmas

  Christmas morning in Urique. A shadow hung over the tiny town at the bottom of the canyon. The murder of a policeman the day before (by a relative, I’d heard, although pretty much everyone in town is related) put a damper on the festivities. Kids played on the sidewalk with their new toys as [...]

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Christmas in Urique

  I will spare you the details. Here are the facts: – Urique is a pueblo of about 1,000 people located at the bottom of the deepest canyon in North America. – The canyon is about 5600 feet (1870 meters) deep. – Urique is about 30 miles from Bahuichivo, which is a stop on the [...]

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Waiting in Bahuichivo

The late afternoon sun wrapped the canyontop village of Bahuichivo (bah-hui-CHEE-vo) with a sweet softness that I would come to feel it did not deserve. But perhaps I am being harsh, seeing as I barely got beyond the train station. I was only supposed to spend a few minutes in Bahuichivo–just enough time to get [...]

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All Aboard! Through the Copper Canyon, part 1

  Rain poured down and the wind howled all night on the little mountaintop village of Creel. And in the morning… “No hay luz. No hay agua,” said the young manager. No hay nothing–anywhere in town. It’s easy to live without lights, even on winter nights when darkness falls at 5:30, but water is another [...]

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