Semana Santa in Merida, Mexico

  Of all the liturgical extravaganzas in the church year, Semana Santa (Holy Week) takes pride of place. And no one celebrates Semana Santa like the Hispanic world. So I was building up my knee calluses in anticipation of some hard-core churchgoing while I was in Mérida. Since a church is rarely more than a […]

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Mérida-my last stop

  After a mystical dive into the ancient Maya culture at the ruins of Palenque, I headed toward Mérida, my last stop on this long Mexican sojourn. I had been traveling for almost five months, beginning in the north of the country and slowly making my way south. I had seen the Copper Canyon and […]

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Palenque: graceful jungle ruins

  “A qué hora es el próximo bus a Palenque?” This was my MO for getting from one place to another in Mexico (and in South America, for that matter): Arrive at the bus station and ask for the next bus to wherever I wanted to go. One was usually leaving in a few minutes. […]

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San Juan Chamula: traditional Maya and a bit more

  For sheer weirdness, it’s hard to beat San Juan Chamula. This little village, located about 30 miles from San Cristóbal de las Casas, has become a tourist attraction for weir…um…its unusual religious practices. The jungle-y state of Chiapas, on Mexico’s southern border, is one of the most indigenous in a country of ancient nations. […]

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Tourist tantrums in the Sumidero Canyon

  The adventure didn’t begin well. I’d arranged a tour to Sumidero Canyon because, when in San Cristobál, one “does” the Sumidero Canyon. I had been assured that it was vale la pena. Worth the effort. When I hear those words, I take them seriously, and I have rarely been lead astray. Apparently, Sumidero Canyon […]

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