European guidebooks call it the “German Circle.” You land in Las Vegas, rent a small motorhome and travel through southern Utah hitting all the national parks en route. Then, you circle back to the Grand Canyon and end up broke in Las Vegas. I’m here to tell you, there is an army of rented motorhomes circling our Southwest right now, often with whole families in tow. Foreign languages are as common as English in the campgrounds.
Oddly, minus Las Vegas and the Grand Canyon, that’s the exact route I’d planned for my eastward leg back to the Midwest. So as I explore the five national parks strung like jewels across southern Utah, I’m in the company of a virtual United Nations.
Right now, I’m holed up in Zion National Park, in Utah’s southwest corner, waiting for a spell of bad weather to pass through Bryce Canyon (next on the list and 2,000 feet higher).
the Great White Throne
Zion lives up to its apocryphal name. Most of the park is a deep valley carved through layers of many-hued Navajo sandstone by the Virgin River, a smallish river the color of green-tinted clay. It gushes into Zion Canyon from its contorted route through the gorge to the north. The river usually behaves, but occasionally it bursts forth with a fury that gouges stone, moves mountains of mud, and smashes full-grown cottonwoods to matchsticks. Not to mention washing out the park road and, sometimes, trapping tourists.
The towering rock walls–the highest sandstone cliffs in the world–give Zion its breathtaking grandeur. With its cascading waterfalls, stone towers, rushing river, and shady groves of cottonwoods, the place has the scent of Eden. Tribal peoples (the ancestral Puebloans and the Paiutes) called it “Mukuntuweap” (“straight canyon”); the Mormons called it Zion—a place of refuge. The scale and spirit of the place demand towering names: the Court of the Patriarchs with Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob and the Mormon saint, Moroni, thrown in; the Great White Throne; the Temple of Sinawava.
the Patriarchs: Abraham, Isaac, Mt. Moroni, with Jacob behind
The other unique element of Zion is its all-out environmental effort. Our national parks protect and steward natural treasures, and they all try to be environmentally sensitive—that’s part of their mission. But at Zion, “we’re trying to be the greenest park in the country,” said a clerk in the bookstore. So toilets are low-flow, and the Visitor’s Center heats and cools with fancy stuff like tombe walls and water-filled baffle towers. You will not hear the sound of lawnmowers at Zion.
The part I appreciated the most? Once I parked at my campsite, I never got in my car again. In fact, cars aren’t allowed on the road into the canyon during the park’s peak months. Instead, a very efficient shuttle system runs the length of the Zion Canyon. There’s virtually no waiting; you get on and off wherever you want; and a nice recording feeds you interesting tidbits about the park on the way. Oh, and the shuttles run on propane. No congestion, no pollution, no accidents, no road rage, no parking problems. And it’s free—your tax dollars at work.
waterfalls at the Emerald Pools
After warming up on the easier hikes for a couple days, (don’t miss the spectacular Emerald Pools), in fear and trembling, I decided to tackle Observation Point, from which I was promised the “iconic view” of the canyon. The only fly in the ointment was that there were “long dropoffs” of the “we’re not sure we’ll recover your body” variety. Also, it’s 8 miles long and rises 2100 feet.
I didn’t sleep well the night before.
In the morning, equipped with the fancy walking sticks from my kids, who are aware of my tendency to trip over my feet, I began the ascent. It was delightful, thrilling, and grueling. I staggered to the mesa at the top of the world, a little dizzy from hunger and from trying not to look over the cliff.
See the zigzag on the right side of the mountain? That's the trail.
All kinds of people were there—grandmas, adolescents, young people, a guy dressed for the golf course. (“Oh, it’s cold up here!” he said.) There may be an obesity problem elsewhere in America, but I was surrounded by some pretty fit ordinary folks.
That night, I limped through the campground, enjoying the fragrant campfires, the hushed voices in the near dark, and the shouts of kids playing hide-and-seek in French and English. Un…deux…trois…
the postcard "I was here" shot from Observation Point
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This is what I love about Utah, there is so much to do, see and explore that you could almost spend a lifetime exploring and never see it all!
This is what I love about Utah, so much do, see and explore that you could almost spend a lifetime exploring Utah and still not see it all!
Hi Kate, it was great to meet you Zion NP(remember the aussie couple, Geoff & Jan) and thanks for the info on Joshua Tree. We had a two night stay there on our way back to LA and enjoyed the whole experience of the two very different desert environments(apart from the wind which howled). We are now back home(Shepparton, Victoria) with our USA experience(well only the SW)well and truly behind us, but what a show it was. I have already spent considerable hours regaling anyone who wants to listen to pieces of the adventure(haven’t sent anyone to sleep yet). But it pales besides the adventure you have carved out for yourself and the manner in which you are doing it. All the best and look forward to reading more.
Cheers
Geoff & Jan
Hi Kate,
You are traveling through my most favorite place in the west. Coming from AZ each spring, we would stay in Moab, Utah. Then, turn onto Rte 128 along side the Colorado River, which turns and twists generally northeast through the red rock cliffs and bluffs beside Arches National Park. Always have wondered how much “eye candy” from God’s wonderful earth one can take in ’til utterly saturated with the beauty of it all! You may be able to tell me… Surely have enjoyed your running narratives and colorful prose on the adventures of a woman wandering, not lost! May God continue to bless and keep you. Love, Sandy
I’ll be heading to Arches in a few days, so stay tuned. And you’re absolutely right–it’s almost too much to take in. I never expected southern Utah to be so spectacular.
Thanks for following–and the good wishes. I’ll be back in Scottville sometime this summer.
Please make SURE that I know you are back, Kate, I have places both on my land and Long Lake to accommodate you, Oreo, your trailer home, etc. Would be delighted to host you!
Happy mothers day!! You never answered your phone!!! You better call me soon lady. We must talk about you most recent adventures.
Thanks, Sweetie. I didn’t answer my phone because I had no service. Now I not only have cell, but Internet IN MY TRAILER! It’s too much.
Great photos, Kate! I was in Zion when I was 12 years old. Loved it there. I love how they’re trying to be so green!
Oh, Marcia. You are due for another visit. This southern Utah stretch is absolutely incredible. Too much to absorb. Even the drives between places is jaw-dropping. Crowds at the national parks are a little bit of a downer, but they’re so worth seeing. Hitch up Bill, and head West.
Happy Mothers day momma, hope you’re stretching after those hikes.
Thanks, Son. I’m stretching… Pretty rad, huh?
Happy Mothers Day!
Thanks, Gail. Back at ya.
Be sure to check out Kodachrome State Park( cute ranger ha ha ) right after Bryce Canyon and Calf Creek 50 miles up the road from there. Have fun!
Darn! I just missed Kodachrome. Heard it was good, too. Spent some good time at Bryce (read on…), and some OK time at Capitol Reef. Saw Calf Creek and spent a couple nights just north of there. (It was crowded at CC.) Now I’m heading for Canyonlands and Arches. So much to do; so little time. I’ll tuck Kodachrome away for the next time.