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Dead-eye day

  Today is overcast, but I doubt that it will rain. The place where I am camping—somewhere between Arches and Canyonlands National Parks in southeast Utah—gets only 9 inches of rainfall annually. So I am betting that it will not rain today. I’m camped on a sweet spot of federal land with a view and […]

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Land of the hoodoos–Bryce Canyon

  Paiute Legend of the Hoodoos Before there were any Indians, the Legend People, To-when-an-ung-wa, lived in that place. There were many of them. They were of many kinds—birds, animals, lizards, and such things—but they looked like people. They were not people; they had power to make themselves look that way. For some reason the […]

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The bristlecone pine and the death of Prometheus

  Ten years ago I visited Great Basin National Park in Nevada, of which the 13,000-foot Wheeler Peak is the centerpiece. High on its most dry and windswept slopes, just at the timberline, a few warped and gnarled stands of bristlecone pine clung to the rocky earth. Although there is little about these trees to […]

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The Winter Quilt Walk

For months now I’ve followed on the heels of the Mormons. Their footprints across the Southwest are as indelible yet as easy to overlook as Mormon tea, a common, spiky desert bush that is their namesake. For the purposes of this blog, I picked a few leaves along a trail and brewed myself some Mormon tea.  […]

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Cathedral of Rock-Zion NP

  European guidebooks call it the “German Circle.” You land in Las Vegas, rent a small motorhome and travel through southern Utah hitting all the national parks en route. Then, you circle back to the Grand Canyon and end up broke in Las Vegas. I’m here to tell you, there is an army of rented motorhomes circling […]

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