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Travel in Canada. The Cost

  Most of us like a little peek–under the hood, the skirts, the sheets. Whatever. To satisfy that niggling curiosity, here’s what our jaunt through Canada’s eastern provinces cost for Julia and I. Just in case you were thinking about doing a little jaunting through Canada yourself. In three months, we: Traveled about  6,000 miles […]

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Farewell to Canada

  September was half over. Days in Newfoundland were becoming short and wet. Like migrating birds, we were drawn toward home. From the back of the ferry, I watched the misty lump of Newfoundland disappear with a bitter-not-sweet sense of loss. The place had romanced us with its warmth and quirkiness, and unlike Julia, I […]

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The most surly artist in Newfoundland

  The weather turned ugly as Julia and I headed back south on Newfoundland’s Viking Trail. What had been warm sun on bright sea only a few days before had turned to gray skies and wind-lashed foam. Pulling off at tiny Port au Choix, I did my level best to find a free place to […]

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Searching for bakeapple

  M is for mash, Or marish or mish, A wet, grassy spot where your rubbers go squish. With blackflies and bog Aunt Bertha will grapple Whenever she goes there To pick the bakeapple.                                                                                      -A Second Newfoundland Folk Alphabet Bakeapple. I’d head about bakeapple before coming to Newfoundland. It’s a word that catches your […]

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Before Columbus there was Leif

  Clayton Colbourne began fishing when he was seven years old. This was not your daddy’s fishing where you sit on a quiet lake slowly baking in the midday sun, and maybe you end up with a couple of pan fish. Fishing in Newfoundland is serious business. When you fish in Newfoundland, you go out […]

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