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Where the Vikings landed

  It was a perfect day for a road trip: bright sun on an azure ocean reflecting a cerulean sky. A day like this is not to be taken lightly in soggy Newfoundland. Julia and I had started early from Cow Head campground at the north end of Gros Morne National Park. We were heading […]

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Gros Morne-gateway to Newfoundland’s Viking Trail

  If you have a month to visit Newfoundland, you should follow the route I’ve been describing in the past few posts. You should see St. John’s and Cape St. Mary’s and rummage around on the back roads. But then, I wouldn’t advise you to visit Newfoundland for less than a month. Hear that, you […]

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PUFFINS, you bird-lovers, and The Root Cellar Capital of the World

A junkyard beside the road can be as good a place as any to stop for the night. At this point, I have become adept at ferreting out secluded little spots to camp. I do this partly out of convenience–why go out of my way to find a campground for just one night? And I […]

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Trinity and the Skerwink Trail

  You can’t follow every road. Therein lies the crux of the traveler’s dilemma–too many roads, too many nooks and crannies. Too many tangents and digressions and detours to explore, either on a road trip or in a lifetime. So, which to choose? Which dirt road disappearing under a tree-covered canopy or winding into a […]

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Artist of the Outports–David Blackwood

  Newfoundland is a place that dwarfs human life. It is surrounded by deep, black water and massive ocean icefields. It is covered with expanses of scrubby marsh and misty lumps of rocks. This landscape is brooding, barren, impassive. It puts you in your place. It is not a generous land; anything taken from its […]

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