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Wisdom from the Maya

  By 9am I was waiting for the bus back to Mérida. “En cinco minutos.” Time enough to run to the corner store for a Nescafé. Among the small group of locals waiting for the bus was a man with two bulging plastic bags. He was of indeterminate age and unremarkable appearance. He struck up […]

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San Juan Chamula: traditional Maya and a bit more

  For sheer weirdness, it’s hard to beat San Juan Chamula. This little village, located about 30 miles from San Cristóbal de las Casas, has become a tourist attraction for weir…um…its unusual religious practices. The jungle-y state of Chiapas, on Mexico’s southern border, is one of the most indigenous in a country of ancient nations. […]

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San Cristobal and the children

A lot of children wander around San Cristobal selling trinkets their parents have made–or just outright begging. If you frequent a tourist area and if you have the right touristy look, you will be approached by children asking for money. This can be uncomfortable, because it sticks the unfair disparity between you and these children […]

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We interrupt this program to bring you–La Virgen de Guadalupe

  Today is December 12. It’s the feast of Our Lady of Guadalupe. This feast is the reason I’ve stayed in the city of Chihuahua for four days, although, in the words of one local, the city is “not very touristical.” In case you’re not familiar with this extremely Catholic festival or its significance to […]

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Ivan drills a well

  The well was dry. Literally. I had just returned from my Canadian trip, and my trailer was parked in the driveway of the little cabin I was moving into. But it had been vacant for years, and the well had run dry. Literally. “Guess we’d better call Ivan,” said my brother-in-law. A week later […]

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