Tag Archives | Canadian maritimes

Farewell to Canada

  September was half over. Days in Newfoundland were becoming short and wet. Like migrating birds, we were drawn toward home. From the back of the ferry, I watched the misty lump of Newfoundland disappear with a bitter-not-sweet sense of loss. The place had romanced us with its warmth and quirkiness, and unlike Julia, I […]

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The most surly artist in Newfoundland

  The weather turned ugly as Julia and I headed back south on Newfoundland’s Viking Trail. What had been warm sun on bright sea only a few days before had turned to gray skies and wind-lashed foam. Pulling off at tiny Port au Choix, I did my level best to find a free place to […]

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Searching for bakeapple

  M is for mash, Or marish or mish, A wet, grassy spot where your rubbers go squish. With blackflies and bog Aunt Bertha will grapple Whenever she goes there To pick the bakeapple.                                                                                      -A Second Newfoundland Folk Alphabet Bakeapple. I’d head about bakeapple before coming to Newfoundland. It’s a word that catches your […]

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Trinity and the Skerwink Trail

  You can’t follow every road. Therein lies the crux of the traveler’s dilemma–too many roads, too many nooks and crannies. Too many tangents and digressions and detours to explore, either on a road trip or in a lifetime. So, which to choose? Which dirt road disappearing under a tree-covered canopy or winding into a […]

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Artist of the Outports–David Blackwood

  Newfoundland is a place that dwarfs human life. It is surrounded by deep, black water and massive ocean icefields. It is covered with expanses of scrubby marsh and misty lumps of rocks. This landscape is brooding, barren, impassive. It puts you in your place. It is not a generous land; anything taken from its […]

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