Tag Archives | Canadian maritimes

St. John’s, Newfoundland–screech, jellybean houses, and Donnie Dumphy

  St. John’s, Newfoundland, is a city that makes you happy just to be there. After all, who can be be crabby in a town that is crammed with jellybean houses? How can you sulk in a city with a street (George St.) that has more pubs per square foot than any other in North […]

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Newfoundland–a colony of gannets and a primer

  First, pronunciation. I used to think that”Newfoundland” was pronounced without vowels. Newf’ndl’nd. And NOW I realize that I have no idea how it is pronounced. Wikipedia says it’s NewFUNDland. But I’ve also heard NewFOUNDland or NewfoundLAND. (Canucks, please enlighten me.) Either way, all the syllables are painstakingly pronounced. Except if you’re from Quebec. Then […]

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Newfoundland rocks! In every way.

  The ferry nosed into the dock at Argentia. The rocky coasts were shrouded in fog that absorbed sound and obscured sight. It was 6am. Welcome to Newfoundland. We had boarded the Marine Atlantic ferry the previous afternoon in bright sun and 90°F (32C) heat. Some passengers (like us) lugged sacks overflowing with food and […]

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Newfoundland, ho!

  We are, once again, camped in a Wal-Mart parking lot. But this time we are poised at the tip of the easternmost lobe of Cape Breton Island in Nova Scotia, and we are waiting for the ferry to Newfoundland. Julia and I had left Meat Cove two days earlier. (Photos here on Facebook. This […]

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St. Anne’s Lobster Supper–and Some Fairy Dust

  I woke up in a dark mood this morning for no particular reason. In fact, I have every reason in the world to be joyful and grateful. But sometimes the neurotransmitters don’t get the memo. So, before noon the universe—or “grace” as I prefer to call it—had given me a nudge in the form […]

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