Tag Archives | Newfoundland and Labrador

Farewell to Canada

  September was half over. Days in Newfoundland were becoming short and wet. Like migrating birds, we were drawn toward home. From the back of the ferry, I watched the misty lump of Newfoundland disappear with a bitter-not-sweet sense of loss. The place had romanced us with its warmth and quirkiness, and unlike Julia, I […]

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Searching for bakeapple

  M is for mash, Or marish or mish, A wet, grassy spot where your rubbers go squish. With blackflies and bog Aunt Bertha will grapple Whenever she goes there To pick the bakeapple.                                                                                      -A Second Newfoundland Folk Alphabet Bakeapple. I’d head about bakeapple before coming to Newfoundland. It’s a word that catches your […]

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Gros Morne-gateway to Newfoundland’s Viking Trail

  If you have a month to visit Newfoundland, you should follow the route I’ve been describing in the past few posts. You should see St. John’s and Cape St. Mary’s and rummage around on the back roads. But then, I wouldn’t advise you to visit Newfoundland for less than a month. Hear that, you […]

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Trinity and the Skerwink Trail

  You can’t follow every road. Therein lies the crux of the traveler’s dilemma–too many roads, too many nooks and crannies. Too many tangents and digressions and detours to explore, either on a road trip or in a lifetime. So, which to choose? Which dirt road disappearing under a tree-covered canopy or winding into a […]

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St. John’s, Newfoundland–screech, jellybean houses, and Donnie Dumphy

  St. John’s, Newfoundland, is a city that makes you happy just to be there. After all, who can be be crabby in a town that is crammed with jellybean houses? How can you sulk in a city with a street (George St.) that has more pubs per square foot than any other in North […]

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