Tag Archives | Nova Scotia

Newfoundland, ho!

  We are, once again, camped in a Wal-Mart parking lot. But this time we are poised at the tip of the easternmost lobe of Cape Breton Island in Nova Scotia, and we are waiting for the ferry to Newfoundland. Julia and I had left Meat Cove two days earlier. (Photos here on Facebook. This […]

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Captain Cyril and the Whale Watch–Bay St. Lawrence, Nova Scotia

  What is it about a road that makes you want to follow it to the end? The tiny scratch meanders aimlessly across the map until it bumps into an impassable something: an ocean or a chasm or a tractless waste. What’s at the road’s end? Does someone live there? Is it awesomely beautiful or […]

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The Hookers of Chéticamp

  At the turn of the last century, families in Chéticamp were large. Livelihood was uncertain—mostly hard won from the sea, the land, and the forest. Life was hardscrabble. So what did the wives and mothers of Chéticamp do to bring in extra pocket money? They became hookers. And over time, the hookers of Chéticamp […]

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Chéticamp and the mi-carêmes

  We are traveling north on Rte. 19 along the fabulous Cabot Trail, which is, after all, why we had come to Cape Breton Island in the first place. After traveling through miles of hayfields and rolling hills, we are suddenly beside the sea. Houses are scattered haphazardly across the dunes. They are tidy little […]

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Dancing in Mabou, Cape Breton Island–part 2

  “G’day. G’day. How are ya?” said the trim, silver-haired woman, sidestepping down the aisle of folding chairs. “Just as you see me,” said one of her cohort. “Came over to say hi.” Julia and I are in the row ahead, settling in and taking stock of the no-frills Community Hall in Mabou, a tiny […]

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